Fashion: Yarn Style

On the Edge: Cardigans

In search for a solution to the edging problems in the Featherweight Cardigan, I did some poking around in recent catalogues to look at what cardigan trims are in style right now. Edgings in the recent Neiman Marcus & Bloomingdales catalogues ranged from gold chains, fur, crystals, and ribbon:

 

These could be fun if I was knitting a luxury sweater with high end yarn. But I would really have to know what I was doing, and I just don’t think I’m at that point yet.

 

One of the big fads I've been seeing is the asymmetrical styling of cardigans with ties that are almost like scarves, dispensing with any tailored edging altogether:

 

These looks are very dashing in the photographs, with the models leaning in a structured pose. But I can’t help wondering what happens to these floaty ties when people wear them in an everyday work setting. Do the dangling ends ever find their way into door hinges, photocopiers, or fly about in the wind to slap their wearers in the face? For me, it’s important to feel put together when I’m going to work. It’s enough trouble getting myself in and out of my car and every house I show my clients, managing keys and property listings, without having to fight my cardigan ends.

 

As I was thumbing through the Neiman Marcus offerings, the look I kept finding my eye drawn to was an exceedingly simple one. Tailored, elegant, with a minimum of fuss. A simple ribbed edging in fine-weave yarn, in the same or a contrasting color to the main body of the cardigan:

 

To my eye, these cardigans by Tory Burch and Pink Tartan meet the criteria of achievability at my level of skill, and they have a certain understated elegance that appeals to me. My favorite example of the use of contrasting edging is this Pink Tartan cardigan:

 

If I was at a much higher level of skill, I would probably try one of these zippered cardigans, which I think are absolutely fabulous. Talk about sexy!

 

The sweater on the left, by Juicy Couture, is a “motorcyle sweater” with a gold, asymmetrical zipper. My absolute favorite, the cardigan on the right, is Ann Klein’s New York Cardigan Jacket.The princess seams are so flattering, I think this would look incredible in a fine wool or silk, as opposed to the shiny fabric here, which is not really knitter-worthy. Now that look is something to aspire to!

 

Cardigan Knit-a-Long

By a strange coincidence, the Sexy Knitter’s Club Knit has nominated several cardigan patterns for our upcoming knit-a-long.I was most excited about the Mountain View Cardigan, top left, because of its classic design, ample waist shaping, and subtle lace details. But it is not going to win. (sigh). At the moment, Vivian and the Featherweight Cardigan are tied, neck-in-neck, at 19 votes each:

 

Perhaps the group will end up doing a KAL on both. Personally, I am much more drawn to the Featherweight Cardigan! Vivian looks very cozy, but it is a hoodie, which to me, by definition falls in the category of informal clothes. 

The whole hooded thing is a bit problematic for me, because when I wear the hood, I feel a bit like I am posing as a teenager in the "hood", (bad pun, I know.) Besides, my husband makes Star Wars jokes and starts speaking to me like I am the Emperor.

Not that it isn’t amusing to hear a Darth Vader imitation once in a while. But have you noticed that in both history and mythology, it's been men who have worn the hoods, not women? Knights templar, monks, bandits, what have you. To me, the hoodie is an eminently masculine look.

I'm not saying that women shouldn't wear them if they feel like it. I'm just not sure that when a woman covers up her hair and part of her face with the "masculine" covering of a hood that she looks particularly sexy. To me, it is more of a comfort thing, since hoodies are warm, as opposed to a flattering style. For me, hoodies are like sweat suits you wear to run out to the grocery store on errand day, or something practical to keep me warm when I take a midnight walk with my husband around the neighborhood. I’m not sure I would spend precious yarn money and a month of my time on a project in that category. That leaves me with the more versatile option, the Featherweight Cardigan.

Granted, the Featherweight Cardigan is more-lightweight and informal looking that the Michelle Obama-style cardigan. The main issue I have with this pattern is the ribbed edging. So many finished versions of the Featherweight Cardigan that are posted on ravelry seem to sag. You can even see how the collar is starting to sag in the design photos! The collar is curling a bit already, as you can see on the right. Here is another example of the curling. And this is the design itself, where you assume they've done everything conceivable to make it look good!

  Many of the finished Ravelry projects for this pattern have a bit of a

 draggled, wispy look around the collar, as if it isn’t quite finished

 somehow. When that many projects have the same problem, you know 

it is design, not user error. I am wondering if a double-placket of 

ribbed edging would solve that problem. Maureen Mason-Jamieson 

offered a class at Stitches West a few years ago on “Collar Obedience 

Training” where she touched on the technique of the double cast on. 

The idea is that when you are casting on your edging, you u se a piece 

of contrasting-color waste yarn to mark your cast on stitches. Then you 

go into the back of the cast on stitches, using the waste yarn as a 

marker, and cast on again. You create a second layer of edging behind 

the first, and then use the triple bind-off technique to fuse the two 

edges together.

 

My first attempt on this, on a collar, looked terrible. It was difficult to hold the two collar edges completely straight and flush with each other when I was doing the triple-bind off so that the edging effect was straight. However, if I could master this technique, and apply it to a ribbed edging, I will post photos here, to give you an idea of what I'm talking about. Sorry, no photos yet.

 

My other concern with the cardigan is the closure issue. Do you notice how the model is using her hands to hold it closed so that it looks good for the photo? Big red flag there! If you look on Ravelry, again, you see a lot of examples where the cardigan just hangs limply in an odd-way, because there’s no closure, and the fabric is too delicate and thin to hold its own shape. This is a bigger concern for me than the collar. I could close the cardigan with one button/pin at the top, as some people have, but then it creates a pear-shaped look, which will only emphasize the width of my hips by falling open there and creating a widening effect. Not quite sure of how to solve that problem. We’ll see what happens in the final vote tally!

The Michelle Obama Sweater

 

Cardigans are everywhere in this fall’s fashion spreads! Look at the beaded cardigan, top left, by Valentino. Wow! I don't know how, but Valentino got a sweetheart neckline into this cardigan, and it looks absolutely feminine, soft and classy! The Ralph Lauren cardigan, top right, is less formal, but I love the smooth, clean lines & the narrow contrasting belt. Bottom left is DKNY and bottom right, Ann Taylor loft.

If there was ever a time to knit a cardigan, that time is now. But why are cardigans so popular all of a sudden? I blame it on Michelle Obama. Everyone has commented on the First Lady’s sense of style since her husband took office. Everyone is watching what Michelle Obama is wearing, and she seems more than equal to the task of guiding our sensibilities into a simpler sense of style that has more to do with line and color than a lot of fussy extras. Michelle Obama had a wonderful spread in the March, 2009 issue of Vogue, pictured here, that shows just how luxurious a simple cardigan can be:

 

Our First Lady has singlehandedly transformed the cardigan into a universal symbol of style. A beaded cardigan that she wore from J.Crew in Europe became so popular that the cardigan sold out in a matter of hours.

 

Michelle Obama is so enamored of that sweater style that her wax model at Madame Taussaud’s is even wearing one:

 

Our First Lady even wore a black cardigan when she went to meet the Queen! And if it’s good enough for the Queen of England, you would think we can all get away with wearing a cardigan just about anywhere.

 

Clearly, I’m going to have to knit myself a black cardigan sometime this year, Michelle Obama-style.

 

The Ocean Sweater

It was sunny and bright at the ocean today, almost a first since we’ve been visiting Bean Hollow! You could actually see the deep blue of the ocean as a stunning backdrop for the wildflowers growing there.

Iceplant, sea daisies, parsnip, sea buckwheat....all kinds of funny names for the flowers and leaves that cluster along the ocean cliffs. I know that iceplant is an invasive species, and it doesn’t belong at the ocean, but the colors are so vibrant. Even the leaves glow in the sun!

As usual, I was thinking about my ocean sweater. And I think I have found a pattern at last! I was going to make up my own, but I’ve been struggling quite a bit with my mosaic sweater, so I’m going back to relying on my tried and true designer favorite, Kim Hargreaves for this one. I like the simplicity of this sweater pattern, which lets the yarn speak for itself:

This is Isla from Kim Hargreaves' A Winter's Tale. It is a simple stockinette sweater with a band of ribbing along the bottom. I think simplicity is essential for a pattern that will use variegated yarn. And the light colored band of lurex shimmer at the edges of the cardigan creates a wonderful contrast between light and dark. It is the same contrast that the ocean excels in:

I just so happen to have a ball of silver shimmer yarn from Rowan that fits the bill! I am hoping that the silver edging will give the effect of the foaming edges of an ocean wave

Here is a juxtaposition of the pattern and the yarn.

 

It doesn’t quite compare to the ocean itself. But then, what can?

Building on My Strengths

 In most fashion makeover shows, things pick up after the closet critique. Once the ugly clothing that used to belong to the victim has been carted away, only a few items are left in the closet. In my case, “Pink” was the last sweater left standing. All my readers agreed that it was a classic style that fit me well, looked high-quality, and was appropriate to wear for work. So I am asking myself why “Pink” was such a success.

1. Waist Shaping:

The waist shaping was the primary reason that “Pink” turned out so well. I used double decreases, a technique I learned from Kim Hargreaves, to reduce six inches between my bust and my waist. I’m a short waisted person, so I have to do my decreases quickly. Double decreases allowed me to eliminate eight stitches every eight rows, and the decreases created an even design that didn’t detract from the smooth look of the sweater:

 The formula for double decreases in the round is this: [Knit 3, slip one, knit two together, pass the stitch over, (=2 stitches decreased) knit to 5 stitches from the end. Slip one, knit one, pass the stitch over. Pass the knitted stitch currently on right hand needle back to the left needle. Pass the second stitch on the left over this stitch and off left needle, then slip remaining stitch back onto right needle (=2 stitches decreased)] x 2

2. Bust Shaping

I targeted the sweater’s measurements to my overbust measurement, (35”) instead of the full point of my bust (37”). Then I added extra stitches in front to create vertical bust darts to make up the difference. That way, the sweater fit me very well in the overbust and underbust area. Unfortunately, the raglan shaping meant that extra fabric I added for my bust high points bulged a little at the sides, so I will eliminate that bust increase next time around. If I were to do it again, I would use horizontal bust darts instead, because of the complication of the raglan shaping, which pulls added stitches into the underarm area instead of the bust area.

3. Hip increases

I used double increases every four rows three times, and then every eight rows twice, to add eight inches for the difference between my waist and hips. Again, since I am short-waisted, there is a dramatic curve between my waist and hips, so I have to increase very quickly there.

4. Negative Ease

I used two inches of negative ease throughout. I also checked my gage halfway through my sweater. Yes, one's knitted gage often changes quite a bit in the course of one sweater. My knitting did loosen up a bit, so I did not need to add so many stitches for my hip increases as I normally would.

5. Yarn 

I used a combination of two luxury yarns--Rowan's kidsilk night and Rowan's calmer yarn. The combination created an unbelievably soft, springy fabric that had good stretch for two inches of negative ease and enough bulk that it created a smooth, non-overly sexy fit.

 

So, now that I’ve boiled down my formula for success, I think it’s time for me to knit this sweater again! Then I’ll be able to look forward to at least two sweaters in my wardrobe I can consistently wear for work. I'm excited to use some Debbie Bliss baby cashmerino yarn in a scrumptious cornflower blue, so I can finally get one of my best "winter" colors into my knitted wardrobe!

 

Knitting Deconstruction

I’m feeling a bit demoralized with my knitting for the moment. I seem to be spending most of my time unraveling projects instead of completing something new. Perhaps this is because I’m creating my own design. 

Once I decided this top was one of the most flattering ones I had, I decided to use it as a model to design a sweater for myself. I suppose all the unraveling is a necessary part of the deconstruction process.

Here is the front of the sweater, with the colors faded by the exposure. What works best for me about this top so far is the color, which you can see better here:

 The blend of black and crimson is right out of the Panetone red and black sketches I found earlier:

When I finished the front and back of this sweater, I discovered that I can’t seam the mosaic bands together in a fluid way that will hide the join. 

In other words, it’s full tilt heading towards a craft project. So now I’m starting again from scratch. I’m going to make the mosaic underbust in one strip for the front and back to create a seamless look. Keep your fingers crossed for me! 

 

In the meantime, I'm keeping myself busy with my other deconstruction project, repurposing the yarn from my waffle sweater to make slinky ribs:

 I can't wait until this is reborn into a beautiful new sweater!

Seeking the perfect Yarn Mate

Kristenlynnea convinced me that knitting success derives from knowing your yarn. So, what is the perfect yarn for me? I feel like I should post a personal ad or something. “Seeking high-quality yarn. Wanted for trips to the beach and stylish outings. I’m not just a girl looking for fun. I want a serious relationship!”

For my readers out there, what is your “dream date” yarn? The one you want to knit with over and over again? For me, it used to be Rowan’s 4-ply cotton and 4-ply soft. (Seemingly, Kristenlynnea and I cruise the same yarns.) Unlike Kristenlynnea, I was mostly using those yarns for textured work, making lace sweaters and seed-stitch tops, so I didn’t always end up with things I could wear out in public. In fact, two of my oddest knits were made in 4-ply soft.

Still, that was not the yarn’s fault, it was mine. And since Kristenlynnea has convinced me that a stable, high-quality yarn is the foundation of a good knitted wardrobe, that’s where I have to start. Sadly, Rowan has discontinued my favorite yarns, so I’m going to have to start from scratch. That is, I will, once I’ve knitted my way through the stash of 4-ply soft and 4-ply cotton I bought on sale after the yarn was discontinued. 

Once my beloved yarns abandon me, I’m going to have to go back out on the dating circuit. Please help me, readers! Is there a 4-ply or DK weight yarn you find scrumptiously soft and reliable in holding its shape that you can fix me up with?

 

 

Interview with Kristenlynnea

Kristenlynnea

I’ve been wrestling with the knotty problem of how to cultivate my knitting as a craft that involves some semblance of discipline. Apart from the fun of just playing with yarn, I hope to end up creating finished-looking garments that I can actually pass off as clothing. But first, there are quite a few things I need to learn.

In search of inspiration, I sought out the master knitter, Kristenlynnea. (That is her Ravelry name). Some of us are born great knitters, others achieve knitting greatness, while others have knitting thrust upon them. Kristen seems to have been born to it.

4.

Kristen's Blog: http://knitionary.blogspot.com/

Me: How long have you been knitting?

Kristen: I always had to be doing something with my hands. So when I was eight years old, I asked my mother to buy me a book on how to knit.

Me: So you taught yourself?

Kristen: Yes, no one in my family did any of that. A friend of my mother’s did teach me sewing lessons, and then when I was eleven, my parents gave me a sewing machine. From then on, I sewed my clothing as well as knitting myself things. Most of my knitting when I started out was Barbie clothes.

Me: But from the age of eleven, you made all of your own clothing?

Kristen: Yes, I used simple patterns to sew my dresses and skirts, or I copied things that I saw and liked in the shops. I made my friends’ clothing too. When we were in high school, I crocheted bikinis for all of us to wear. That was the big thing in the sixties. We really thought we were something else!

Me: Giggling. That must have been a sight to behold.

Kristen: Oh, yes. All of us in pink and purple crocheted bikinis! Can you imagine?

Me: So, given that you’ve been designing and making clothing for yourself for so long, you must have a strong sense of your own style and what looks good on you.

Kristen: Well, I think I am attracted to things that have a classic style, that will last over time.

Me: Most of the sweaters you display on your project page are primarily knit in stockinette stitch.

Kristen: Yes. I think stockinette gives sweaters a more classic look. And I love the way it feels, it is so zen! Besides that, stockinette, to me creates a more smooth and professional appearance. That is important to me, because I wear my sweaters every day to work.

Me: That is really fantastic!

Kristen: I work in retail part time, and the door is always open. So sweaters are perfect for that setting.

Me: How does that effect the decisions you make when you’re knitting your sweaters, knowing that you’re going to wear them to work?

Kristen: I tend to make high-necked sweaters. Also, I’m long-waisted and I don’t like my tops to ride up, so I tend to make them longer. Sometimes I wear an apron to protect them as well.

Me: I’ve noticed that you knit your sweaters in mostly neutral colors. White seems to be your favorite color, and you also knit in grey and blue.

Kristen: Yes, I have so many white sweaters!

Me: I think that gives your tops a more classic look.  How many tops do you knit a year?

Kristen: About twenty.

Me: Wow!

Kristen: My friends tease me about my knitting, because I take it everywhere. I am always knitting, even while I read or while I watch movies with my husband, and people think it’s kind of weird.

Me: How do you knit in the dark of the movie theater?

Kristen: I have a little light I wear over my ear, and I click it on if I’m increasing or decreasing every 8 rows and I have to check what row I’m on. But I do it really fast—I try not to make noise that will disturb anyone.

Me: I just don’t understand how you can knit while you read, or when you’re totally in the dark.

Kristen: I do it by feel. Since I’m mostly knitting stockinette stitch, I don’t have a complicated pattern to keep track of.

Me: How is it that you rarely have to unravel anything, but your sweaters fit you so well? Do you use the same sweater patterns over and over again?

Kristen: I do sometimes make things I really love twice, or three times. Especially if my daughter sees a top she likes, I’ll give it to her and make another one for myself. Kim Hargreaves is my favorite designer. But I use new patterns all the time. I can just tell from the way my knitting looks if it’s going to fit me.

Me: How do you explain that?

Kristen: I only knit using DK weight or 4-ply yarn. So I know how many stitches I need to cast on in any DK yarn to fit me. If the pattern says to cast on 120 stitches, I know immediately that for me, it should be more like 105.

Me: So you have mastered certain yarns. It’s your knowledge of the type of fabric those yarns create that allows you to fit them so well.

Kristen: Yes. I think that is what it is. I know how the yarn will turn out. All I have to do is check my knitting from time to time as I go along.

Me: What are the favorite yarns that you use over and over again?

Kristen: I love Rowan yarns and I seem to use them above all the others. My two favorite yarns are Rowan 4 ply soft and 4 ply Cotton which are now discontinued. Right now I love Kidsilk Haze and Kid Classic, I love the halo the mohair creates on the fabric, plus it's so cozy warm. When you double it, it becomes DK weight and it is just fantastic! I love Felted Tweed, too. Maybe Rowan will introduce a Felted 4-ply next!

Me: Aside from knitting in fine gage yarns Is there anything else that you do to give your knits a fitted look?

Kristen: I always add waist shaping. Since I’m petite, that’s very important to define my waist so my tops don’t swallow me up. Even if there isn’t enough waist-shaping in the pattern, I add it in.

 

Thank you, Kristen, for sharing your recipe for success! Here is a recap of her secrets for knitting a perfect work top:

1.    1.Use fine-gage yarn that you are familiar with, in a neutral color like white, grey or blue  

2.     2. Choose a classic-looking pattern that is mostly knit in stockinette stitch.

3.    3. Know your body’s proportions, and keep checking the shaping of your sweater, in keeping with your knowledge of the yarn.

4.    4. Add waist shaping to define your figure.

 

This interview was eye-opening for me. Here I have been floundering around, from one lace pattern to another, from one type of yarn to the next, always struggling to interpret a new pattern. The remedy to all this confusion is so simple. Choose a few high-quality yarns and use them over and over again in one stitch pattern like stockinette, until you understand the type of fabric you can create. This will teach you the drape, dimensions, and stretch of that fabric. Combine that with your understanding of your figure, and shaping techniques, and you have a simple recipe for success.

In Pursuit of the Elusive Sea Sweater

We went back to the ocean again. This time the seals were stretched out on the rocks, lying on their backs enjoying the warmth of the sun. There’s a long path that stretches from Pebble Beach to Bean Hollow State Beach, which we walked. All the time, I was thinking about my ocean sweater. The one I want to make with my birthday yarn.

Creating something evocative of the sea is tricky. One of the characteristics of an ocean setting is its varied textures and colors. It is tempting to experiment with texture in my sea sweater, but that is probably best left to a wall hanging. Perhaps I had better listen to my own advice and  let the colors and the sheen of the yarn speak for itself.

This is my first version of an ocean sweater. I call it sea foam. The pure color, ice green, I suppose you call it, is evocative of a pure green wave, glinting in the sun. But the texture went wrong in this sweater—the body is made from a bulky mohair that adds 20 extra pound to my frame. Still, I wear it at the ocean because of its lovely color and warmth.

Handmaiden seasilk is a much thinner yarn—28 stitches/4”. Perhaps a simple, long sheathe knitted in stockinette? I’m still not sure of how to do justice to the yarn…  

 

Knitting And Your Face Shape

Mirror, mirror, on the wall...

 

Okay, who doesn’t feel a bit self-conscious reflecting on their image? It can feel narcissistic to pore over pictures of your face and figure. On the other hand, without a critical self-examination, how will any of us ever know what looks good? The thing about knitting your own clothes is that you’re in the position of acting as a top fashion designer to show off your best features and underplay the things you don’t want people to see. Why miss out on that opportunity when you’re making your own clothes?

Showing a Good Face to the World

According to some studies, the collars we wear have a visual impact on the way our faces are perceived. The collar creates a frame for our faces, and the whole picture is taken in at a glance. If that’s true, it’s worth taking a second look at the visual frames we are creating for ourselves.

What Frame is Best for You?

Look in the mirror, and examine your face shape. If you’re in any doubt, bring a piece of paper and a pencil and draw an outline of the shape you see. Or get someone to take photographs of you wearing different necklines. A dark turtleneck will frame your face in a clear way, so wearing that can help you make up your mind.

Hmmmm. Square, anyone?

 

The Oval Face

If you have an oval face shape, your troubles are over! That is supposedly the ideal effect we should all be striving for when we frame our faces—we should be trying to make them look as much like an oval as possible.

 

The Square Face

If you have a square face, the main thing to avoid is a square neckline that emphasizes that shape. Most other styles look good, especially v-necks, sweetheart necklines, shawl collars, and peter pan collars. Deep scoops are good, as well as styles that tie at the neck. Avoid a notched collar.

Top left: v-neck. Top right: sweetheart neckline. Bottom left: shawl collar. Bottom right: peter pan collar.

 

The Round Face

Stay away from round necklines! Draw the eye downwards with a u-neck, v-neck, sweetheart or square neckline. Drawing the eye downwards creates an illusion of length that balances your faces’ roundness. Sailor, shirt and notched collars are good. Stay away from crew necklines, halter-style tops, and funnel-shaped necks.

notched collars are good

 crew necks are bad 

The  Long Face

This is basically the opposite of the round face. You don’t want to draw the eye downwards, that will only make you look longer. Instead, draw the eye horizontally with a boat neck or crew neck sweater.

Boat neck

 

The Heart-Shaped Face

 To balance your pointed chin, avoid pointy necklines, such as V-necks or sweethearts. Balance your face shape with boatnecks, scoopnecks, and square necklines. Peter pan and shawl collars are also good.

So, considering that I have a square face, what ranking would I give my collars?

1. The best: The Deep V-neck

This balances my square face and creates a vertical line that minimizes my broad shoulders. 

2. The Deep Scoopneck:

This balances my square face shape and draws the eye downwards. 

3. The Open Cardigan:

Combined with a low-neck scoop top underneath, this draws the eye downwards. And the vertical lines of the open cardigan breaks up the bulk of my broad shoulders.

4. I would say the sweetheart neckline here, only I don't have any of those yet. Perhaps this should be one of the new sweaters I make this year! 

5. The low cowl:

This oblong style draws the eye downwards & mitigates the breadth of my shoulders.

6. The open-collared shirt:

This basically creates a v-neck.

7. The crew neck:

Okay, but not as good as the styles above, because the high neck just adds to the bulk of my shoulders & bust

8. Boat neck:

Not good! Not only does this neckline emphasize the squareness of my face, but it makes the distance between my shoulders and bust look enormous. Ugh! This is a collar for me to avoid at all costs.

9. The turtleneck:

Run away, run away! Must burn all turtlenecks with this style immediately!