Building on My Strengths

 In most fashion makeover shows, things pick up after the closet critique. Once the ugly clothing that used to belong to the victim has been carted away, only a few items are left in the closet. In my case, “Pink” was the last sweater left standing. All my readers agreed that it was a classic style that fit me well, looked high-quality, and was appropriate to wear for work. So I am asking myself why “Pink” was such a success.

1. Waist Shaping:

The waist shaping was the primary reason that “Pink” turned out so well. I used double decreases, a technique I learned from Kim Hargreaves, to reduce six inches between my bust and my waist. I’m a short waisted person, so I have to do my decreases quickly. Double decreases allowed me to eliminate eight stitches every eight rows, and the decreases created an even design that didn’t detract from the smooth look of the sweater:

 The formula for double decreases in the round is this: [Knit 3, slip one, knit two together, pass the stitch over, (=2 stitches decreased) knit to 5 stitches from the end. Slip one, knit one, pass the stitch over. Pass the knitted stitch currently on right hand needle back to the left needle. Pass the second stitch on the left over this stitch and off left needle, then slip remaining stitch back onto right needle (=2 stitches decreased)] x 2

2. Bust Shaping

I targeted the sweater’s measurements to my overbust measurement, (35”) instead of the full point of my bust (37”). Then I added extra stitches in front to create vertical bust darts to make up the difference. That way, the sweater fit me very well in the overbust and underbust area. Unfortunately, the raglan shaping meant that extra fabric I added for my bust high points bulged a little at the sides, so I will eliminate that bust increase next time around. If I were to do it again, I would use horizontal bust darts instead, because of the complication of the raglan shaping, which pulls added stitches into the underarm area instead of the bust area.

3. Hip increases

I used double increases every four rows three times, and then every eight rows twice, to add eight inches for the difference between my waist and hips. Again, since I am short-waisted, there is a dramatic curve between my waist and hips, so I have to increase very quickly there.

4. Negative Ease

I used two inches of negative ease throughout. I also checked my gage halfway through my sweater. Yes, one's knitted gage often changes quite a bit in the course of one sweater. My knitting did loosen up a bit, so I did not need to add so many stitches for my hip increases as I normally would.

5. Yarn 

I used a combination of two luxury yarns--Rowan's kidsilk night and Rowan's calmer yarn. The combination created an unbelievably soft, springy fabric that had good stretch for two inches of negative ease and enough bulk that it created a smooth, non-overly sexy fit.

 

So, now that I’ve boiled down my formula for success, I think it’s time for me to knit this sweater again! Then I’ll be able to look forward to at least two sweaters in my wardrobe I can consistently wear for work. I'm excited to use some Debbie Bliss baby cashmerino yarn in a scrumptious cornflower blue, so I can finally get one of my best "winter" colors into my knitted wardrobe!