Busty Matters Continued

I was the kid who sat in the back of math class and doodled while various incomprehensible math propositions whizzed past. Even to this day, if you mention word problems to me, the hairs stand up on the back of my neck. Unfortunately, my need for bust shaping in my sweaters led me to wander into bust dart territory. My math anxiety did not predispose me to remain calm when I looked at mathematical charts for calculating bust darts depth and width and wrap sets. In fact, the columns of numbers and text, with constructions such as "measure X - y to determine D, then take D + 1 divided by 2" were enough to send me fleeing to the hills.

 

So, my first time out knitting bust darts, I did what any self-respecting non-analytical would do—I looked at someone else’s recipe, and copied it word for word. 

Shapely Tank, by Joan McGowan-Michaels

Joan McGowan-Michaels designed lingerie for establishments like Frederick’s of Hollywood before she became a knitwear designer, so I turned to her for guidance. In response to the buzz generated by the lively bust dart tutorials offered on Knitting Daily some time ago, Joan McGowan-Michaels designed a free pattern that you can find on her website: www.whiteliesdesigns.com. Her free Shapely Tank pattern has built-in instructions for bust darts—depending on your cup size, you follow the instructions and voilà all the hard calculating work is done for you. McGowan-Michaels even integrates short-row shaping into the design at the bottom of the sweater, so you have a chance to practice your short rows before you get to the ultra visible area of the bust, where all your imperfectly picked up wraps will show.

 

My version of the Shapely Tank would look better if I had used negative, instead of positive ease. Still, following the pattern gave me some confidence to try bust darts on my own. I learned a basic recipe for creating short rows that corresponded to my cup size in DK weight yarn, and I determined that I need to start my bottom-up bust darts 3.5 inches from my waist, which is a measurement I can now apply to any bottom-up DK weight sweater pattern. This is one of the crucial things you have to figure out to make sure your bust darts are successful: where to start them? The other thing you really need to learn is some familiarity with short row shaping.

A really good source for advice on short row shaping and picking up wraps can be found at knitpicks: short row tutorial

I have found that it’s the picking up of the wraps, particularly on the purl side, that is crucial to avoid strange-looking lumps in the bust area. I am still better at picking up knitted wraps than purled ones—the left side of Blue was totally smooth in the bust  area, but the right side, where I had purled my wraps and turned, has a little knobbly line that I had to work hard to block out. 

Perhaps there’s a better technique for picking up purled wraps out there somewhere I will find some day!

 With Blue, I was on my own, since the original pattern, Pink, has no suggestions on bust darts. So I turned to rchrispy’s excellent tutorial for guidance. Her top-down bust dart tutorial can be found at this address: http://www.pursuitoffiber.com/blog/2008/03/24/wicked-is-done-a-bust-dart-tutorial/

 

Here are some general pointers on deciphering the various charts offered by Knitting Daily, rchrispy and honeybee on bust dart calculations:

A.  a.  Take a deep breath. 

B.   b. If still in panic mode, eat a chocolate bar

C.    c. Read the charts several times and then get someone to measure you before picking up your knitting needles.

 

The Dimensions of Your Bust Area:

The key to success and sanity with bust darts is to simplify it all down to a few proportions that you can measure. Do your measurements wearing the (correctly-sized) bra you will wear with the sweater you are going to knit:  

1.    1. What is the width of your underbust? Get someone else to measure your ribcage just below where your bra starts (and fastens).

2.    2. What is the distance between your waist midpoint and your bust apex (nipple)?

3.    3. What is the width of your overbust? Measure your width in the underarm area, approximately at the spot where your bra cups are connected to the straps.

4.    4. What is the distance from the top of your shoulder to your bust apex?

5.     5. What is the width of the fullest point of your bust? Husband’s love to help with this measurement!

6. 6 .    What is the distance between your bust points (nipples)?

 

Once you get all those measurements out of the way, you will feel much more relaxed. Just knowing your upper topography makes all kinds of sweater shaping easier, whether knitting bottom up or top down. Even if you never venture into bust darts, you will have gained a great deal from the exercise of getting to know your own complete bust area. A bunch of knitting patterns—Stephanie Japel has designed many of these—insert a decorative panel in a sweater that is supposed to sit in the underbust area. It is critical that the lace or cable pattern be fitted properly so that it sits between the part where breast curvature starts and the waist ends. Yet, all over Ravelry, you see finished sweaters where the knitters didn’t bother to figure out their own measurements. The result is a disaster! Usually, what you see is a decorative panel that climbs halfway up the bust, giving the illusion that the wearer has four boobs instead of two! Japel’s Simple Knitted Bodice seems to be the worst offender. There are over 600 finished sweaters using this pattern on Ravelry, and you can really tell the difference between a knitter who knows her own measurements and one who blindly followed the pattern.

Designer's photo of Simple Knitted Bodice w/correct placement of decorative panel

Even if you never venture into bust darts, knowing your measurements will ensure that your sweaters will always give you the appearance of having the correct number of breasts!

If you are brave enough to venture forth, pour yourself out a glass of wine and sit down with a great source, such as rchrispy’s bust dart tutorial:

http://www.pursuitoffiber.com/blog/2008/03/24/wicked-is-done-a-bust-dart-tutorial/

 

I will break down my own efforts with Blue in relation to that tutorial in my next post.