Chanel, fitting a model, 1960's
As a die-hard fan of Chanel's work, I have been searching for a cardigan pattern that lives up to her standard for years. Since 2004, I’ve searched through countless knitting patterns and catalogs, examining “Chanel” inspired designs with no success. Why is it so difficult?
I think a lot of knitwear designers have focused only on imitating the tweed patterns of vintage Chanel designs, missing the point. It is the elegance of the cut, the perfect fit, the attention to finishing that makes Chanel cardigans so unique. As you can see from the picture above, any handknit that strives to duplicate a woven fabric will likely fail. Trying to force a handknit fabric to act like a weave only distorts it, adding extra bulk. And no hand-crochet trim like the one above comes close to the standards of the trims Chanel had made specially in Italian mills. Don't get me wrong, I appreciate any designer who is brave enough to design a slip-stitch tweed jacket from scratch. Unfortunately, no matter how expertly they are knitted, these designs just scream the loving hands of home!
The finishing on these Chanel imitations is even worse. When you come close to imitating something but don't quite succeed, the result tends to look cheaper than cheap. The worst offenders, to me, are the Chanel wannabes replete with droopy collars, or even, egads, feather trim!
What these designers have forgotten is that Chanel's power does not come from tweed patterns or fussy edgings. It comes from simple, elegant clothing that is cut close to the body:
Kim Hargreaves is the first knitting designer I’ve come across that incorporates the best aspects of Chanel’s aesthetic into her cardigans; in particular, the elegant cut and attention to finishing.
Kim Hargreaves shaped this standout cardigan, Wisdom, to fit close to the arm scythe, creating a slender line on the body. Her minimalist band of garter stitch trim provides a quiet finish for the edges, allowing the translucence of mother-of-pearl buttons to stand out. You see, Kim Hargreaves didn’t ruin her cardigan with ribbons or feathers or some crocheted edging that would only call attention to what it wasn't. Instead, she designed a classic handknit, complete with normal buttons, that still somehow reminds me of Chanel. I don't know what her inspiration was, but to me, the design contains everything a classic cardigan should have. There is no torturing of fabric, just a simple horizontal stripe pattern in a tweedy yarn that provides depth and textural richness without the bulk of a cumbersome slip-stitch construction.
A simple use of contrast trim at pockets and sleeves adds a quiet touch of visual interest without going overboard. This is the essence of what I have been seeking—a simple tweed that I can pair with silk prints and work slacks. It is sophisticated and understated, yet somehow it communicates luxury. After years of searching, I have found the perfect cardigan at last!