I have had a wonderful time exploring the passages in the 11th arrondissement, seeking a moment of quiet beauty amidst the teeming crowds. Many who visit Paris are unaware of this hidden shopping paradise, and I stumbled on it quite by chance. Here is the history of this roofed shopping passage, the precursor to the indoor shopping centers we know today. In 1799, the Passage des Panoramas was built, the first of its kind in Paris, and innovative in its use of a canopy made of metal and glass, and illuminated by gas lamps.
The tiny passageway is easy to overlook—the narrow entrance is set back from the Boulevard Montmartre in the 11th arrondissement of Paris, in what was once one of the richest neighborhoods. It is a true refuge from the swarm of foot traffic consisting of working professionals and tourists streaming past on Boulevard Montmartre—the serene passageway, paved in a geometric pattern of white, grey and black, is filled with filtered sunlight drifting in through the glass canopy above.
In the 1830s, Stern, the famous engraver settled there, and soon a host of postcard and stamp sellers moved in. They are here still, selling amazing antique and collector's items as well as modern fashion and jewelry:
This passage also features some wonderful restaurants, Passage 53, a very pricey Japanese fusion French restaurant which we have not tried, and the far more affordable, L'Arbre a Cannelle (Cinnamon Tree) which features a wonderful bavette aus eschallotes (grilled flank steak with shallots) and house-made tarts and pies. It is always full and it is fun to crowd into a tiny table, brushing knees with the diners on either side.
Across the street, the Passage Jouffroy was built in 1845 to build on the success of the Passage des Panoramas. This is where my ill-fated hotel is located. We are sad not to be staying there, but one has to be prepared for the unexpected here.
The passage Jouffroy features the same tiled floor and glass roof, giving the sense of walking through a giant jewelry box. This passage is a bit more touristy, with some tacky souvenir shops jostling elbows with lovely patisseries, antique book stores and boutiques filled with elegant bric-a-brac.
La Maison du Roy collectibles
Whenever I admire beautiful pieces inspired by history it raises the question of knitting history-inspired pieces--how is it that so many collectible and home design artists manage to bridge that gap but most knitted pieces attempting to do the same fail? What I love about antique-inspired home furnishings is that they give us knitters an opportunity to express the love of history that our souls crave without venturing into knitting and wearing costumes. Although I love the opulence of Renaissance and 17th & 18th-century textiles, I try to keep these references on my couch or coffee table instead of in my clothes. I find that if I surround myself with little affordable antiques, I hold off the tempation to wear Jane Austen or Tudor knits from head to toe! Here at the Maison du Roy I purchased a marvelous candle holder modeled on an antique:
One hopes this little gem will hold me off from knitting a Catherine Howard jacket from Tudor Knits for another year. Not to take away from the beauty of Alice Starmore's designs, but in what everyday setting can one wear that gorgeous piece?
If there is one thing I have learned about knitting vintage-inspired clothes, it is that "vintage" knits have to be planned to fit into your current wardrobe in harmony with the modern pieces you have or it is doomed from the outset! Still, I took as many photos as I could of the historical architectural elements that inspired me in these passageways, hoping perhaps that would be a worthwhile inspiration for a textured pattern to knit someday.
Look at the lovely upper architecture of this darling little hotel in the heart of this passage. We rarely stay at the Hotel Chopin because it is always booked, but we found it quite affordable and hospitable.
My favorite store, though is the Libraire du Passage, which features a marvelous collection of fashion books, both historical and modern:
Here in the past I purchased some remarkable books on fashion details from 18th century clothing in France. I love to look at the fashion plates, which have been very helpful in my historical fiction about that time period. But I have yet to find a way to make a bridge between empire fashion and knitwear, alas.
As you reach the end of the Jouffrey passage, art books are spread out everywhere for you to browse through.
And then the art galleries follow.
The passage across the street is met by the Passage Verdeau, which extends the Passage Jouffroy and features more art galleries and embroidery shops:
There are more antique book sellers here as well:
Here one really feels a sense of refuge, from the ugliness and bustle and ordinariness of modern life. I come here every time I am lucky enough to visit Paris to get away from it all. Away from everything, that is except from the cigarette smoke that seems to linger in the Passage Verdeau, where we dined tonight at the little restaurant aptly names "Le Bistro". My husband ordered the daily special, dinde roti au style provencale, which was delicious, the olives and garlic and stewed tomatoes making roast turkey, the blandest of meats, taste exotic and piquant. I ordered a salad which turned out to be a giant heaping bowl filled with jambon de Paris, fromage cantal, oeufs durs, tomates et pommes de terre en huile—a composed lettuce tomato salad which was much heartier, due to the giant portions of salty country ham and buttery cantal cheese than I had expected, but delicious nonetheless. The entire outdoor seating of the cafe was full, and the smokers puffing away in the confined corridor did create a bit of an unpleasant atmosphere in the bistro. However, I highly recommend the tearoom, "Le Valentin, La Tour des Delices" within the Passage Jouffroy, for a cup of hot chocolate and a giant raspberry cookie (macaron) whipped cream sandwich, which we enjoyed on another day.
We have been enjoying ourselves enormously so far in the teeth of every mischance I could have imagined. Our favorite hotel? Inaccessible due to a broken elevator. Currency? Our bank card has been rejected by all ATMs in spite of the fact that we personally visited our branch twice to ensure its use in Europe before we departed for France. Amenities? The first night of our stay, we accidentally blew out the lights on the fifth floor of our hotel by plugging an American appliance into the wrong converter. Luckily the fuse box just needed to be switched back and light was restored to all! Still, undaunted, our search for the perfect French pastry goes on, starting with the first ever patîsserie in Paris! A bientôt!