Fashion: Yarn Style

The Make, Wear, Love Retreat in Pacific Grove

Asilomar State Beach

 

Asilomar in Pacific Grove, CA was just as beautiful as I had hoped it

would be. We were close to the beach, and it was wonderful to know

we were on a 106 acre nature preserve, breathing in pure ocean air!

 

 

In preparation for Amy Herzog's Make Wear Love Retreat by the California,

coast, I cast on Amy Herzog's knitting pattern, Aislinn. It was really 

an intriguing pattern designed for an hour-glass figure, with 

lovely lace detailing and an innovative waist tie picked up and knit 

into the fronts. I had a lot of fun working on the sweater during

 the retreat, especially as I was surrounded by a group of women 

who knitted any time and anywhere all weekend long!

 

 

 

 

Now, as I am working on the final sleeve of my sweater, I am reflecting back 

happily on the wonderful time I spent laughing and knitting at Herzog's retreat!

 

 

The weather was overcast all four days, but that made for perfect sweater 

weather! Asilomar is a retreat center originally built for the YWCA,  to 

prepare a new generation of bold, intrepid women to face the world. The 

original buildings were designed by Julie Morgan, the famous arts and 

crafts architect, and the site is only a few steps away from Asilomar public 

beach, which I visited at every possible opportunity. The sight of the wild

flowers blooming in the sand dunes made me smile every morning,

 reminding me that beauty can be found in the most unlikely places!

 

 

Amy Herzog proved to be as warm and kind a hostess as she is a talented

knitwear designer. The retreat was thoughtfully structured to allow time for

learning, fun and reflection, and I enjoyed every minute of it! My favorite

feature of her retreat was the Hall of Sweaters. This was a former chapel

building equipped with pews and a set of long, low tables where Amy left

stacks and stacks of sweaters she had knitted as samples for all of her

designs. It was fantastic to have the chance to try so many sweaters on!

 

 

 As you can see, we were lining up all weekend to try on different styles of 

knitwear! It was a really valuable opportunity, because photos sometimes lie

(or perhaps photos mainly feature tall, skinny young women wearing clothes

to be knitted by much more experienced and curvy women!) Even seeing a 

garment flat, you don't really know enough about how it will suit you:

 

 

But in the hall of sweaters, we could make immediate judgements about

which cuts and necklines were unflattering to us:

 

and which of Herzog's designs would be worth time and effort to knit:

 

 

I also thought the workshops were practical and entertaining. The 

most helpful tip I learned in Amy's class is that it is worth the time

to knit a longer and wider gauge than a pattern calls for, because if it 

takes you more time to swatch, you will be more likely to relax and

knit the way you will when you are knitting the actual garment

sitting on the couch and watching television! It was also interesting

to learn the reasoning behind her custom fit patterns, which I have 

knitted, providing 2 inches of positive ease in the waist--she explained

that when something is tighter on part of your body, that part of your

body looks bigger. I do agree with her. However, I feel that if you are 

going to give 2 inches of positive ease in the waist, the same ease 

should be given to the hips as well. Amy uses 2 inches of negative

ease there, in order to "prevent the sweater from riding up when you

lift your arm". I never knit my sweaters that short! Also, I feel that by

cinching in the hips so much and billowing out fabric at the waist, the

overall figure appearance is rather sausage-shaped rather than an hour-

glass, which I feel personally is more desirable. But to each her own!

 

 

The yarn market was also spectacular! A Verb for Keeping Warm, from 

Northern California, was there, featuring their special yarn which they make

themselves, called Pioneer:

 

 

My partner in crime, Kristen, of the fabulous blog Knitionary, told me a

fascinating story about the history of Pioneer yarn, which I hope she will

share on her blog someday. Kristen's company was the best part of the whole

retreat for me, and she kept me constantly laughing and having fun. During

the market, we entertained ourselves by trying on the knitted samples

designed by Julie Wiesenberger of Cocoknits--my favorite was Gisela!

 

 

Kristen was wearing her smashing Goldie pullover, but that didn't stop her from

trying on many samples as well, and we giggled far into the night.

 

 

I would definitely attend the Make, Love, Wear retreat again! It was wonderful

to be surrounded by so many kind, delightful knitters in such a beautiful

natural setting. I would also bring my own groceries again. Asilomar is run by 

Aramark, because it belongs to the National Park Service. The food is acceptable.

I like good food, so I packed plain yoghurts, nuts, protein bars, and fresh veggies

to sub out for some of the meals. But what else do you expect in a woodsy cabin

setting where the deer roam freely during the day?

 

 

I should just mention in passing that Clara Parkes class on yarn fibers was 

breathtaking. I went out immediately and ordered her book, The Knitter's

Book of Yarn. Clara is a hilarious speaker and can make the most intricate

technical detail seem simple and easy to master. I am looking forward to reading

her books in future, as well as Herzog's Fit to Flatter book. I hope there will be

another Make, Wear Love retreat like this on the West Coast next year!

Spring Knits by the Sea

 

Recently, I visited Point Lobos State Park in Big Sur, California. It was

 a gorgeous, sunny day, and an otter frolicked in the surf at the foot of the  

cliffs. My mother-in-law and I found a private bench where we could knit and 

watch the otter diving about while our husbands hiked through the forest.

 

 

We knitted contentedly and admired the spectacular view. The ocean shone 

deep aqua, and the strong tide sent waves crashing against the rocks below:

 

 

 

Through the screen of the trees, the coastline of Monterey Peninsula was visible. 

And I will find myself there tomorrow, when I attend Amy Herzog's Make, Wear, 

Love Retreat at Asilomar! Set right on the coast of Monterey Bay, the retreat

features classes taught by Herzog, and other knitting experts as well as a fashion

show of knitwear with plenty of time to relax and enjoy the ocean view.

 

 

My dear knitting friend, Kristen, who is the author of the blog Knitionary, 

and I will be attending the retreat together and sharing a room. I can't wait!

Amy Herzog will be leading all kinds of intriguing activities on how different

yarn fibers lead to different fabrics. And she will create a mini-marketplace for

yarns to be sold, as well as providing tons of samples of her different patterns for

us to try on. It really sounds like a fantastic adventure!

 

Usually, when visiting the beaches along the 17 mile drive of Monterey, I only 

have time to jump out of the car, sniff the tangy salt spray in the air, and

 photograph a fellow nature lover such as this seagull before impatient 

companions call me back to the car. The advantage of staying at Asilomar 

is that we will be within walking distance of one of the lovely beaches

 of 17 mile drive, where I can linger as long as I want. There is something 

about the deep aqua color of the water around Monterey and Big Sur, rimmed 

with perfect white foam, that is hauntingly beautiful.

 

I have been longing to capture this color combination in knitting, so I have

been looking at some designs for the seaside that feature stripes. Kim

 Hargreaves' Shore design uses a clever reverse straight stitch pattern to 

make the white stripes pop out. I was really enamored with this until I tried 

to get 31 sts = 4 inches in Rowan Summerlite 4ply. Wow! Not even close!

I switched to Handmaiden Sea Silk yarn, which is a finer 4ply than the 

Summerlite cotton, but after wet blocking my swatch, I still couldn't get the 

31 sts= 4" gauge.

 

 

So I chose a Rowan design from Magazine 55, Wharf. Here the gauge

is 28 sts= 4", which is closer to my tension with Handmaiden Sea Silk:

 

I also love this pattern because the multiple-colored stripes allow me to use up

odds and ends from three leftover skeins of Handmaiden Sea Silk, while I am 

using some Habu NS28 pure mulberry silk to knit the white stripes. The 

resulting fabric is really lustrous because of all of the silk I am using, 

and reminds me of the sun reflecting off of ocean waves:

 

 

So far, the back piece progresses slowly. Those sized 2 needles require time, and

the Habu white yarn is made of millions of tiny filaments that split like crazy.

But I don't think that will show in the finished fabric once it is washed.

 

 

What are you intending to knit for spring? Please share!!!!

Basking in the Glow of Stitches' Yarn Market

 

Recently, I attended the knitting convention, Stitches West, which was held at the Santa Clara Convention Center in California. What’s not to like about gorgeous, hand-dyed yarns surrounding us knitters on all sides?

 

 

Miss Bab's Hand-dyed Yarns

The Yarnover Truck, a mobile yarn store from Southern California, had again a spectacular assortment of unique hand-dyed yarns from small companies such as Zen Garden. Sigh.

 

 

 

 

And then Southern Yarns had a giant selection of Handmaiden Sea Silk yarns, ranging from “Sea Silk” to “Flaxen” to “Rumple”, a bouclée silk yarn! Here is Rumple plus Sea Lace and Swiss Silk in light hand-dyed tones:

 

 

Next, there is Rumple and Swiss Silk in darker hues. Since my yarn budget was quite limited, I satisfied myself with photographing all these yarns instead of buying them!

 

Handmaiden also has some intriguing yarns with summer fibers such as flax and linen. Their Lino and Flaxen looked amazing, but I contented myself with looking this time.

 

 

Yoth is a yarn company that emerged last year as a huge hit at Stitches and they were back with much more stock! Their gradient sets, sold on gorgeous wooden dowels, almost sold out during the first day of the market last year. By the third day, their booth was almost empty.

Yoth is a family-run company from the Pacific Northwest, and their natural colors reflect that. I see the Oregon forests, rainy days, and stormy oceans that I enjoyed during my college years reflected in their yarns:

 

Occasionally, a bright sunny day took us by surprise, resulting in a "sunny day keg" celebration on campus. The Yoth colors pay tribute to those rare bright spots as well:

 

I held off from buying most of these yarns, not from a natural sense of frugality and virtue, but because I planned to stock up on vintage buttons from Unbuttons! my favorite vintage button booth, owned by Linda Sicard. She and her son are incredibly friendly and kind, and always go out of their way to help you find the perfect accessories for your special projects. And the buttons are so reasonable, I always buy a years’ supply of buttons there, so that I have just what I need when each sweater is done. Here are some of the buttons I purchased this year:

 

 

I stick with buying metallic buttons as well as black and white ones, as those are the most useful to me. And, of course, I bring my yarns and project plans with me so that I am not just wildly speculating--the buttons are all chosen to match a specific project, unless they are really spectacular, like the pearl cluster ones. I think those deserve to have a sweater designed around them!

 

I was also lucky enough to attend Lorilee Beltman’s Vertical Stranding class at Stitches this year. Lorilee is one of those instructors who explains clearly, step by step, punctuating her remarks with all kinds of references to interesting tools and techniques I would never have thought of! I would highly recommend her class to anyone who is interested in learning how to knit vertical lines without tackling a full-on intarsia project. Look at this gorgeous sock where she created a plaid-like fabric:

 

We created a sample in Lorilee's class to practice different vertical stranding techniques, and I made my sample into a caterpillar monster which I sewed googly eyes onto and stuffed and sent to my baby niece who is only a few months old. I purchased the googly eyes from the Stitches Booth of Kristen McCrory. She specializes in little knitted monsters and cute toys, and these black eyes come in different sizes--you just push them through the fabric and lock them into place with a back holder like an earring. Her etsy shop is named Kristen's Kords. Don't you love the eyes in this caterpillar/swatch monster?

 

 

To keep baby caterpillar from feeling lonely on the trip to Montana, I knitted a little friend from her using the pattern, Mini Kitty Pouff by Molly Rivera, from Knitpicks.

 

 

If you follow the “mini” kitty pattern and use the bulky yarn recommended, you will end up with a sofa cushion. By using dk weight yarn and small needles I obtained a kitty who really was mini, instead. I think he makes a nice companion for the little caterpillar, don't you?

 

But I digress. Lorilee Beltman’s class was a fantastic learning experience, and I am already applying the vertical stranding techniques I learned from her to a new project, but more about that next time. Lorilee promised us class attendeees a free pattern as well, and I have my eye on her Bold Move Skirt!

 

 

My MIL and I both fell in love with this skirt when we had the opportunity to examine it in person, it really is as beautiful as it looks! I even got to try the skirt on, and it is very flattering. 

 

Leslye Solomon

I also took Leslye Solomon’s class on how to use sewing patterns to create knitting patterns. That class was really fantastic, too! I have been working on my own for the past year to convert a sewing pattern of a jacket into a knitting pattern, and it was great to take Leslye’s class and hear the affirmation that I have been thinking along similar lines to a knitting expert. After all, I was just making it all up as I went along. Leslye is so analytical that she had a lot of tools to make the process easier, such as knitter’s graph paper for creating a schematic of your pattern pieces translated into knitting, and blocking wires to ensure that you could predict the size of your finished knitting pieces in a similar way to fabric.

 

 

The jacket I am making uses both vertical stranding and the techniques of following a sewing pattern, so I will blog from time to time about the adventure. In the meantime, here are photos of the yarns I purchased at Stitches West:

 

    There is almost 1,000 yards of yarn in this $40 skein of Handmaiden Silken

      Lace, which gives me way more yarn for the money than their other yarns. 

    I plan to use it to knit the pattern, Vivian by Jennifer Wood. You can find

     the pattern in her Refined Knits book:

 

 

    My other fun yarn purchase was a skein of Anzula Breeze to match the  

     Handmaidensilken I bought last year. The two yarns will be combined into a 

     lace summer top to match my pair of shorts:

 

I will use the Anzula linen silk blend for the body of the pullover--it is about 750

yards for a $30 skein, which was a much better deal than the other yarns I looked

at in the market. Then the silken lace yarn will be used for the lace accents to the

top. I will likely use the pattern, Silla by Jennie Atkinson again, with some further

modifications to the neckline.

 

Osaka: A Japan-Inspired Lace Cardigan by Sarah Hatton

 

 

 

 

Rowan Magazine 59 contains a beautiful story set in a Japanese garden,  complete with an actual knitted kimono!

 

 

Osaka stands out for me as the most gorgeous lace pattern in the book. I wanted to knit it immediately, and I created my own color scheme. The original pattern uses the colors Drab, Alhambra and Steel in Rowan kidsilk haze yarn, which makes it an olive, grey, and turquoise knit, in spite of the misleading pink color filter used in the photos.

 

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/osaka-2

Osaka

 

There have been a lot of disgruntled comments about the pink color filter in the photos of this collection, as the yarns in the sweaters look quite different than their actual hues. I do not mind a little creative license, but then I have a Rowan shade card, which I can use to examine the real colors of the yarns. For those who do not have this option, I recommend looking at the yarns in your local store before ordering them to knit any of the sweaters in this collection. There is a significant difference between the photos and real hues of the yarns in this particular set of designs. For example, the "pink" sleeves in the image above are actually light grey, the KSH color "steel". My sweater, however, actually uses pink, the KSH color "Majestic".

 

 

I assembled an old ball of Rowan kidsilk night, a metallic grey purple yarn, along with Kidsilk haze Majestic, Ghost and Blackcurrant to blend my colors. To me, there is nothing prettier than a grey and pink-toned color schemes with hints of a dark-toned yarn to frame it. The buttons I used are Victorian metal-coated glass with a flower motif. I purchased the buttons from my favorite antique button seller, Unbottons! at Stitches West this year.

 

 

This lace pattern was rather challenging to knit. I think anyone who has a fair amount of experience making lace will be just fine, but I do not recommend it for a first-time project. First of all, the pattern diagram in the book consists of sets of 10 stitches which do not repeat, so you have to track carefully across the entire diagram and each set of 10 stitches is different. If I had been really smart, I would have rewritten the diagram provided in the book onto graph paper, using sets of repeats that were the same over a much larger number of stitches. Instead, I just used a pen to cover each section of the diagram I had completed and used sticky notes to cover the previous rows I had knitted so I would not lose my place.

 

 

I started knitting this cardigan with the back piece, but another knitter in the Rowan group knitted one of the fronts first, which allowed her to master the lace pattern repeats much more quickly, as the piece is so much smaller that you repeat the lace rows many more times as you are learning it. I think in future I would take that approach. Beware of the fact that on rows 1, 3, 9 and 11, the pattern shifts over by one stitch so you have to move all your lace markers on the needle to the right by one stitch in the cases of rows 1, 3 and 11, and to the left by one stitch on row 9. This also means you reduce a stitch on one side of the shift and increase a stitch on the other side, so you have to track this and count stitches on each edge every odd row so you can compensate. Otherwise you will end up with an oddly-shaped piece that is quite assymetrical.

 

 

I added quite a bit of waist-shaping to this sweater, by just letting the stitches naturally drop off during the lace shifts on one side, and then reducing extra on the other side to match. I have to say that it even while knitting the last lace piece it was impossible for me to concentrate on anything but following the pattern chart section by section, row by row. I used a chart system and x'd each row I had completed so I would not get lost. If you prefer to knit lace socially or in front of the television, this is not the pattern for you!

 

Although this was a challenging design, the result to me is worth it. This is a beautiful cardigan that will be worn from years to come, and it is versatile enough to be paired with skirts, slacks and dresses. There are many more beautiful patterns to pursue in Rowan 59, but I think I will take a break from lace knitting for a while!

 

Kim Hargreaves’ Blithe knitted in Seasilk

 

 

 

I am obsessed with Handmaiden’s hand dyed sea silk yarn, a combination of sea cell and silk fibers. I have knitted five projects with the yarn over the years, and I find it has a wonderful drape and sheen and is easy to unravel. Having encountered a gorgeous sea blue color of the yarn at my local LYS, I was impelled to buy it immediately. It took some time to find a pattern to do the yarn justice, but Kim Hargreaves’ designs always include such exquisite details that I thought her Blithe would be a good choice.

 

 

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/blithe

 

I love the clever ridge pattern in this design. My only disappointment is that, even though I made the fronts one size larger to prevent gaps in the buttonhole area, I still have a little bit of gapping any way. I think if I were to knit this again, I would start the button placket much higher up. I think a button placket that starts at the waist is more flattering to a flat-chested figure than a curvy one.

 

 

I believe the slight gapping in the button band was caused by my gauge tightening as I knitted, so that the pieces ended up a bit smaller than I had predicted. I still love this top, however, and it will make a wonderful piece to wear under a cardigan or jacket.

 

 

I purchased my sea blue mother-of-pearl buttons at a wonderful notions shop in Paris, Entrée des Fournisseurs. This fabulous shop is right off La Place des Voges, where my husband and I spent a wonderful sunny afternoon people-watching in the park at the center of the square.

 

Entrée des Fournisseurs has a marvelous selection of buttons, ribbons, and many fabulous trims worthy of a Chanel jacket. I could have spent hours there except that my escort grew bored of examining “bits and bobs” and wandered out. The French name for said bits and bobs is mercerie. Mercerie includes trims, buttons, lace and ribbons, and it was extraordinary what a button array I found in such a small store.

 

It was great fun knitting my Blithe in Paris. I used a different Kim Hargreaves pattern for the sleeves, as I thought a standard set-in sleeve would be more flattering than the lace sideways sleeve in Blithe. I do highly  recommend the pattern, but I would upsize the fronts a size or two to prevent gaps in the closure, or better yet, start the button closure much higher up for a curvy gal who wishes to knit it. I'd like to ask my readers, is it just me, or does the button placket starting so low at the waist create a visual illusion that the bust is too low as well? Not the most flattering top I have ever made, I think!

 

A Visit to the Chanel Boutique in Paris

 

 

 

 

At Rue Cambon, the Chanel boutique is the original showroom where Gabrielle Chanel lived and worked. A family reunion in Paris a few months ago gave me the opportunity to visit this exquisite atelier.

 

 L'Hôtel de Ville, Paris

While my husband and father-in-law visited famous monuments such as the Hôtel de Ville, and his siblings and my father explored museums, my mother-in-law and I made our pilgrimage to that couture museum, La Maison Chanel.

 

 

We started by enjoying a leisurely cup of hot chocolate and a pastry at Angelina, Gabrielle Chanel’s favorite restaurant. Apparently, she lunched there almost daily. Then Maxi and I started to walk towards Rue Cambon. It was a chilly evening and we clutched our hand-knitted scarves as we strolled past the Place Vendôme, peeking into the windows of famous jewelry shops on the way. Cartier, Piaget, Lalique, Van Cleef and Arpels, Bulgari--every window sparkled with diamonds and giant pearls, including that of the Chanel jewelry boutique:

 

 

The Vendôme column celebrating Napoleon’s victory at Austerlitz is under construction at the moment, and across the square, the Ritz is boarded up for repairs. The square used to consist of boutiques of high-end designer clothing, but extravagant jewelry has taken over completely!

 

 

We plunged into a warren of narrow streets in pursuit of our hearts’ desire, passing lit windows of boutique after boutique displaying tantalizing sweaters by unknown designers.

 

 

Window dressing is elevated to a fine art in Paris, which explains why window-shopping is such a past-time there. The Parisians call it “window licking” (leche-vitrines) because the displays are so luminous and tempting they seem almost edible!

 

 

Turning towards the windows also gave us respite from the clouds of cigarette smoke blown into our faces by the advancing mass of pedestrians. Smoking is everywhere and I was not surprised when my father explained that Paris is now considered the most polluted city in Europe as it was sometimes difficult for me to breathe. I don't know if this is because the city is shaped like a bowl, collecting smog, but my father takes allergy medicine just to get through his frequent sojourns with friends here, and many of us followed his example.

 

At last, the doors of Chanel beckoned us out of the smoggy twilight and we rushed inside!

 

 

We had chosen a good moment to visit, an hour before closing time. The swarm of tourists which floods the boutiques had noticeably thinned, and concentrated in the accessory rooms. This meant we had the clothing boutique almost to ourselves. On display were the models from the Ready to Wear 2015/2016 Fall Winter Collection. The fashion show for this collection was set in a Paris restaurant, which is why the window display shows a mannequin dressed as an upscale diner next to the sign, "Brasserie Gabrielle." He is so inventive, that Karl Lagerfeld!

 

Although I had pored over the models from this collection on my computer and television screens, it was completely different examining the garments closely myself!!

 

 

Although I faithfully watch all of Lagerfeld’s fashion shows on youtube, in person, the colors are unimaginably richer, the details sparkling and bold. For example, this vest which looks like nothing special via image is actually a gorgeous metallic purple interwoven with gold and jade green. I would have loved to purchase it, but even a vest at Chanel is beyond my means! As we walked from model to model, dogged by a determined salesperson to protect the clothes, I couldn’t suppress squeals of delight. This is what we saw:

 

 

Naturally, photos are not allowed in the store, so I am using photos from Chanel to give you a sense of some of the gorgeousness we saw. As a textile enthusiast, I am always the most interested in the fabrics themselves. You simply cannot find knit wear anywhere else in the world with that complexity of color, texture and depth, in my opinion.

Look at this humble Chanel scarf displayed in the window, which I photographed on the way out for you!

 

 

And here is a fascinating crocheted beaded belt, displayed in the window as well.

 

 

No matter how much he steals from vintage shapes and looks, Lagerfeld always manages to keep the clothes modern and with a bit of an edge:

 

 

Our photos were limited to the display windows. But how rich they were! It is the artistry of the way the clothing is combined that to me is almost as fascinating as the clothing itself. As captivated as I had been by the collection when I saw it in movie form on my television screen, the colors of the fabrics and trims were so much more beautiful and lustrous in person, that I was really moved.

 

I did not have the opportunity to see this piece which I love in person:

 

 

But I am determined to knit something vaguely inspired by this color scheme some day. I would also love to knit a fair isle sweater in purple, green and gold, although I could never even imagine how to create such an intricate design. But my interest in Chanel is more that of an inspiration that will fuel my imagination and make me dream of things I never considered possible in knitwear! Just composing this blog reminds me of the happy hour we spent at the Rue Cambon!

 

Karen Cardigan & Rowan’s Softknit Cotton yarn

 

 

 

Is it just me, or is Sarah Hatton designing superb knits these days? Her past few books of patterns have been wearable, modern and stylish! Her book, Rowan Loves Softknit & Handknit Cotton is a particular favorite of mine:

 

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/sources/rowan-loves-softknit--handknit-cotton

 

I have been sulking over the discontinuation of Rowan’s Calmer cotton yarn, the softest cotton I have ever had the pleasure to knit with:

But when I saw the “Karen Cardigan” in Rowan Loves Softknit & Handknit Cotton I knew I had to give Rowan’s Softknit Cotton a chance:

 

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/karen-cardigan

 

This pattern, "Karen" knitted up in a few weeks, and was fun and easy to follow. I chose the bright red color to compliment my dress, which needed a matching cardigan to tone it down for work:

 

 

If you want to ensure a really good fit at the waist, I recommend casting on the smallest size and then adding extra increases for the bust, as I did:

 

 

My only complaint with this pattern is that you are asked to knit the button bands separately and sew them on at the end. Not only is this supremely boring, but it is tricky to ensure that your button holes line up exactly when you are easing in a buttonhole band. I would recommend instead just casting on five extra stitches at each edge of the fronts and knitting them in moss stitch as one fully-fashioned piece, à la Kim Hargreaves. That way you don't need to knit extra bands later, and your buttonholes will line up evenly. Otherwise, I really found this an enjoyable knit.

 

 

Rowan Softknit Cotton is a nice, squishy yarn that feels good in the hands. The addition of 8% nylon polyamide fiber into the cotton makes it much easier on the hands, so I did not experience any pain while knitting. However, it is not an ideal replacement for Calmer yarn for me. Whereas projects knit in Calmer have a beautiful drape, Softknit Cotton is a rounder yarn and so produces a stiffer fabric.

 

Here is a cardigan, Sherry by Kim Hargreaves, which I knitted in Rowan Calmer:

 

http://www.ravelry.com/projects/yarnstylist/sherry

 

Do you see the lovely, loose drape on the body this fabric achieves?

 

 

The Softknit Cotton, by contrast, is more buoyant and thick-textured:

 

When comparing the two yarns, I have come to the conclusion that whereas Calmer was ideal for pullovers and tank tops, its drape was not always good for cardigans, which need to hold their shape. If I were to knit the pattern “Sherry” again, I would actually knit it in the stiffer Softknit Cotton. But I love my Calmer in pullovers or cardigans I wear like blouses, as in my “Cherry” sweater:

 

http://www.ravelry.com/projects/yarnstylist/cherry

 

Of course, Calmer was discontinued long ago, but that doesn’t mean I don’t lurk around on the internet, seeking pre-owned yarn lots. Actually, I just snapped up 7 balls of Calmer in turquoise for a bargain price, thereby violating my own New Year’s resolution to follow a yarn diet only three days after it began! Hmmm. This is embarrassing. Must redouble my efforts to knit from stash…….

 

How to Knit with Rowan's Swarovski Crystal Beads

 

 

 

 

I am a huge admirer of Rowan’s new line of Swarovski crystal beads, Shine. Their multi-facets reflect an enormous amount of light! It is unfortunate that my photos of Semillon, the beaded top I just finished, don’t really show how much the crystals sparkle.

 

 

I used the 6mm beads for this sweater, which are quite a large size. These beads can be purchased via WEBS (www.yarn.com), and Jannette’s Rare Yarns (http://www.jannettesrareyarns.co.uk/) as well as my local yarn store, Uncommon Threads of Los Altos. (http://www.uncommonthreadsyarn.com/)

 

 

The faceted crystals are also available in 4mm and 8mm, and there are pearls and other interesting shapes as well .

 

Before you jump in and start knitting with the crystals, here are some tips to keep in mind:

 

 1)  Calculate how many beads you will need per ball of yarn and string them on in advance. I know some knitters prefer to crochet beads on as they go, but I found it quite tricky to fit a size 14 crochet hook into the size 6mm beads. Although the beads look large, their holes are small which is why only Rowan finest and Kidsilk haze are used in Rowan's beaded patterns. Also, I found the larger beads were more difficult to get a crochet hook all the way into. If you do plan to hook your beads on, test this technique in advance and make sure your crochet hook fits comfortably.

 

 

To find a youtube tutorial by Jennie Atkinson on how to thread beads onto your yarn, click here:

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uZ1InknIHrQ

 

 

2)   2) Be wary of all-over beaded patterns. Any pattern that requires you to bead every six or eight rows all the way across in intervals will be extremely heavy and even small seed beads will significantly distort the garment’s shape. If you don’t mind your sweater becoming much longer and thinner than the pattern schematic, go ahead, but be aware that measuring as you go will not accurately predict the garment’s weight and shape.

 

Rowan yarns: "Elizabeth" 

3)   3) Avoid strongly contrasting bead colors if most of your fabric will be beaded. There is nothing worse than a sweater that looks like it has broken out in chicken pox! This is another reason why all-over beaded sweaters are tricky to make. You don’t want to spend hundreds of hours of work only to look as if you have just broken out into a rash when you put the sweater on.

 

 

 

 

4)  Modernize your beaded knits by using similar-colored crystals to your knitting yarn. The Swarovski crystals are so large and brilliant that they will show quite clearly on the fabric. In my opinion, the most important addition the crystals make is texture and sheen. By keeping to a similar color tone, you can add depth of color and sparkle without looking hopelessly out of date. Note that I paired my sweater with a faux leather skirt and high-tops. Keep your other clothes modern to balance a beaded top.

 

 

In my opinion, nothing can age a woman faster than a little lace unless the colors are modern or bold. For example, a cobalt-blue lace sweater will look much more modern than a cream-colored one. Adding beads with your lace can take the vintage reference way over the top unless you simplify. Another way to keep your look modern is to use “tougher” colors such as olive, drab, or navy and match your beads or use metallic ones.

 

 

Look how Lagerfeld modernized this Chanel jacket by making it in Navy accented with brass and pairing it with slim-lined trousers and red sport shoes. In spite of the presence of lace and embellishment, this is the jacket of a modern-working woman, not a time-warp victim.

 

5)  Do use contrasting beads in small areas of a garment, for example to emphasize a collar, cuffs or trim. Jennie Atkinson has designed some amazing patterns using the Swarovski crystals in this fashion which I will share below:

 

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/fitted-peplum-jacket

 

This Fitted Peplum Jacket by Atkinson is subtly accented with charcoal 4mm Swarovski crystals. It is designed for Rowan’s Finest yarn, a 4ply blend of cashmere and merino. I love the clever details at the collar, cuffs and pockets where the beads are incorporated. This allows a subtle sheen without the beads dominating the garment.

 

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/beaded-ribbed-cardigan

 

Another fabulous design by Atkinson is the Beaded Ribbed Cardigan. Also designed using Rowan’s Finest yarn, this design uses 6mm crystal beads to form a flower detail that highlights the waist. There is a “sweater girl” vibe to this knit which reminds me of the best of 1950’s knitwear. Curve friendly, emphasizing the waist, and using bead embellishments sparingly as a clever feminine accent, this pattern has it all! There is a simplicity to this design which avoids the fussiness of many beaded sweaters from the past.

 

 

If you prefer knitting beaded shawls, the free Triangular Beaded Shawl pattern by Atkinson is available on the Rowan website, or at WEBS yarn.

 

http://www.yarn.com/product/rowan-swarovski-triangular-shawl-free-pattern/

 

I didn’t think much of this shawl until I saw it knit all in white, displayed in the window of my LYS. Trust me, it is spectacular! The beads are large crystals that serve as anchor points at the lace tips at the bottom of the shawl. This will make a real luxury gift for the glamour queens in your life! However, I would not venture to knit it in white except perhaps for a bride. Instead, I plan to knit it using charcoal kidsilk haze eclipse and accenting it with dark grey beads, or perhaps in gold eclipse with the topaz crystals instead.

 

Well, I’m off to cast on Jennie Atkinson’s Fitted Peplum Cardigan. Happy knitting everyone!

Tempting List of Knitting Patterns for the New Year!

http://cdn.funcheap.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/nye_yerbabuena.png

 

What is more inspiring than a new year, filled with endless creative possibilities? There are so many wonderful projects just waiting for us, and a whole year of time to make them in! Now that my health is back on track, I am thrilled to be knitting regularly again, and I can hardly wait to get my hands on all the fabulous projects that have been beckoning me!

 

http://cdn.styleheritage.com/

 

In 2016, I would really like to knit a sweater inspired by Karl Lagerfeld’s spectacular Paris Salzburg collection from last December. Yes, I know, I have fallen way behind the curve, but what really inspired me about this collection was the use of buttons as a main design element in the knitwear. The use of a long, vertical row of buttons or even a double row of them to make a woman’s figure appear longer and leaner is genius! And it is a trick even a beginning knitter can use! All you have to do is knit a simple shape and sew the buttons on in a straight line. I will be visiting my favorite antique button seller at Stitches West this year with a special eye out for a large set of brass or gold buttons I can use for this! I think a little navy cardi arrayed with a double row of gold buttons could be fabulous for spring!

 

 

Another approach to using buttons as a central element is the pattern, Riding to Avalon by Connie Chang Chinchio. There is some gorgeous blue Kidsilk Haze Eclipse in my stash that would make this a glamorous hoodie.

 

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/riding-to-avalon

 

Another pattern that really beckons me with its clever use of buttons is Holburn by Martin Storey:

 

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/holborn

 

What an ingenious way to highlight the waist and ease for the hips at the same time!!!! Plus, this top is super modern and wearable.

 

 

My other main knitting inspiration for 2016 is my stash. Let’s face it, folks, the yarn purchases didn’t stop when my knitting did. So I have a slight problem of overstock. My resolve this coming year is to only buy new yarn after I have completed three projects from stash. This means I will be knitting several projects with kidsilk haze. The contenders are:

 

Sauvignon by Martin Storey:

 

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/sauvignon

 

 

Champagne by Marie Wallin:

 

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/champagne

 

Galen by Kim Hargreaves:

 

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/galen

 

and Rossini by Sarah Hatton:

 

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/rossini

 

Another benefit of knitting from stash as much as possible is that I will then be able to afford to buy Rowan’s Swarovski crystal beads. Because they are not cheap! So it will have to use stash yarn on those projects to keep them on budget.

 

Every knitting plan should contain one extravagant, absurdly impractical goal. So here is mine: a knitted skirt suit complete with corset!

 

In 2014, Lagerfeld introduced the corset into winter knitwear with amazing results. Here is my favorite, three-piece suit:

 

 

How fabulous is this? I have always wanted to challenge myself to knit a matching skirt and top anyway, so the addition of a third piece as a knitted corset would really take this over the top! Here are the patterns I am contemplating for this mad venture:

 

River by Kim Hargreaves, perhaps lengthened another 6 inches so I can sit down?

 

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/river-2

I like the textured pattern of this, which keeps it modern. Plus I hear that Rowan lima is great for skirts and that they don’t easily sag or lose their shape.

 

The Tulip Sleeve Pullover by Coralie Meslin would be knitted in matching Rowan lima:

 

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/tulip-sleeve-pullover

 

 

And finally, the element of the absurd--the corset itself. The Prim Reaper’s Corset by Nicki Lohr:

 

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/the-prim-reapers-corset

 

In 2016, I also plan to knit more gifts. In 2015, I gifted a third of my projects and found that very satisfying. So look out for some rugged men’s knits in my blog!

 

Finally, I plan to eat more healthily so I can get back to my fighting weight. This will mean experimenting with recipes that make vegetables as enticing and fun to eat as the pastries, pies and homemade ice creams I love, which will be a tall order. If I find any really delicious recipes that fit the bill, I will share them here with you.

 

What are your New Years resolutions, knitting and otherwise? Please share! And Happy New Year, everyone!

Semillon and How I Love Knitting with Swarovski Crystals

 

 

 

After three months of non-stop work, it took something spectacular to draw me out of knitting hibernation. It was the crystal beads that burst on the scene, resulting from Rowan yarns’ partnership with Swarovski!

 

 

These multi-faceted beads designed for knitting are spectacular! The 6mm beads are a particular favorite because they are light in spite of their size, and they really reflect the light. However, the beads come in many shapes and sizes.

 

For my first project,  I decided to knit Semillon by Martin Storey, from Rowan’s Parisian Nights collection. It is actually a beaded sweater althought the pattern photo makes it difficult to see the detail.

 

The reason that I chose the pattern Semillon is that the beads are strategically placed in small sections. I have learned the hard way that beads add weight to a garment, so all-over beads warp a garment’s shape, lengthening it significantly. When the garment becomes much longer, it becomes much thinner as well, so don't count on it buttoning across the front! Don't rely on the pattern specifications or yarn gauge either if  you are knitting all over beads. Even if the measurements are correct, the garment will wear much differently once it is on your body because of the beads' weight. I discovered this when I knitted Kim Hargreaves’ Glisten and I had to settle for a very open beaded vest instead of the closed one I had anticipated:

 

 

The remarkable thing is that, when laid flat, the garment matched my measurements perfectly. But when worn,  it was 3-4 inches longer and narrower because of how the beads changed the fabric. This vest is now the property of my svelte god-daughter and it fits her perfectly. Lesson learned!

 

 

With Semillon, the beads are strategically placed in small panels at the hips and on the sleeves of the sweater.  There is just enough beading to add sparkle without pulling the garment out of shape! Lacework is a wonderful technique for showing off crystals, and the lace is also strategically placed so that it does not fall over the bust or tummy or any other area that should not be sheer.

 

 

The designer, Martin Storey, recently taught a beaded cable workshop which I attended at my local LYS. There, he confirmed all my thoughts about beading and how it can distort the shape of a garment. Storey is a very experienced knitwear designer and has used beads in many clothing patterns over the years, so I knew I would be safe in his hands.

 

 

How I love my Semillon! I used Rowan’s discontinued kidsilk haze night for this project, along with the lavender Swarovski crystal beads and the discontinued Rowan shine metallic yarn to give the edges bling. I chose to match my beads to the color of my knitting because I was looking for depth of color and shine rather than a color contrast in this garment.

 

 

One of the best aspects of this pattern is that it includes generous waist shaping, producing a flattering hour-glass shape. I enhanced this effect a bit by adding additional waist shaping.

 

 

The sleeves are a bit puffed, which means that you have to ease them in to the body of the sweater. I like a mildly puffed sleeve. However, just keep in mind that the neckline cannot be loose, or the sleeve puffing will be exaggerated and fall oddly on the upper arm. The pattern is designed to bring the neck in tightly which then pulls the sleeves in to proportion with the body of the sweater, so  it is important to follow those instructions to the letter.

 

 

My one caveat about this pattern is that it requires advanced skill with lace. Every row of the twelve-row pattern is different, so there is no purl row to give you a rest. Sometimes one row took 30 minutes to complete, especially row 10, which involved purl 2 through the back loop on the edge of a bead. Addi lace tip needles helped, but I still found this row tricky. Each lace repeat consists of 8 stitches. The lace pattern moves one stitch to the left for each repeat on row 9 and then one stitch to the right for each repeat on row 11, so you have to watch out for that or the entire pattern will go out of synch. Whenever a lace pattern shifts like this, you can get fewer stitches on the right side of the garment and more stitches on the left side, so track that to ensure that your garment does not become asymmetrical. I find tracking easier when I separate each 8-stitch lace repeat with markers. That way, if you go off the pattern in one section, you can spot it right away! I always count my end stitches on the right and left sides of the piece to ensure they stay the same, adding or deleting extras if necessary.

 

 

Jennie Atkinson has created a wonderful set of designs for these Swarovski crystal beads, which I will be blogging about soon. I encourage anyone who loves a bit of sparkle to test these beads out, they are truly a spectacular addition to any knitting project!